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Types of Zippers [The Ultimate Guide to Zippers]

When I started sewing along with friends many were afraid of inserting zippers. Some would avoid projects that used a zipper, either because they didn’t know how to insert a zipper correctly or because choosing the wrong type of zipper had ruined the whole experience. Now, once you have learned the correct way to insert a zipper and how to choose the correct zipper for your project, it is actually quite easy and soon you will be breezing through patterns that require zippers – heck it beats sewing on buttons and creating buttonholes, or doing some kind of gyration to pull non-stretch pants up over your hips!

Factors to consider when choosing the right type of zipper for a project:

• The length
• The width of the teeth
• Whether it is an open ended or closed zipper
• The material the zipper teeth are made from – stamped plastic, plastic coil, or stamped metal.
• The fabric and colour of the zipper
• Whether it is waterproof

Before we get into the details of different types of zippers let’s discuss the parts that make up the zipper for a better understanding of the anatomy of a zipper, because you’ll need to know these terms when choosing the right type of zipper.

These are the parts that make up a zipper:

• Top Stop – to stop your slider from coming right off the top of the zipper. The stop is usually made from metal or plastic and appears on each side of the zipper.
• Slider Body – this joins the teeth to close the zipper and separates them to open it. The slider body is made from metal or plastic
• Pull Tab – you grip this with your fingers to move the slider body up and down
• Teeth – these hold the zipper sides together
• Tape – the type of fabric that the zipper teeth are attached to
• Bottom Stop – this prevents your slider from coming off at the base of the zipper and goes across both sets of teeth. You only find these on closed bottom zippers
• Retainer Box – on separating zippers the retainer  box stops the slider falling off the end of the zipper on separating zippers.
• Insertion Pin – this hard flattened plastic or metal bit attached to the end of the zipper slides into the retainer box, on separating zippers, to enable you to engage the teeth when you start using the pull tab to close the zipper.

Main types of zippers:

There are two main types of zipper styles:

1. Closed Bottom – there is a metal or plastic bar, called a bottom stop, that goes  across both sides of the base of the zipper to keep it from separating.
2. Separating – the separating zipper makes it easy to open jackets. The end of one side of the zipper has an insertion pin that fits into a small mechanism called a retainer box that enables you to pull the zipper up and close the jacket or track suit top. When you pull the zipper down the end slips out of the retainer box and the jacket is open and easy to take off.

Types of zipper teeth:

Whether the zipper is closed or open ended it may have different types of teeth.

Coil

The teeth consist of coiled nylon or polyester stitched or woven into the tape. This construction gives the zipper flexibility. It’s a perfect choice for something like knit jackets or other lightweight clothing where you don’t want a stiff zipper that kind of bellies out when you sit down. It’s also an ideal choice for the zippers inside bags where the lining material is pretty thin, or for pockets where you  want to blend the zipper to the line of the fabric. These are the easiest to adjust for size as you can cut and sew across the bottom of the zipper.

Metal

Metal zippers are the most durable, but being metal need to be cared for so they don’t corrode and seize. Usually when the slider sticks this can be sorted out with a bit of WD40 but then you need to be careful not to get it on the clothing. The metal teeth  are machine clamped onto the zipper tape. You will find metal zippers used on heavy duty coats, boots, and items like duffle bags. They are heavier than plastic teeth so if used on a lighter fabric can cause the fabric to stretch, but they can create eye-catching detail on a garment.

Molded Plastic

Molded plastic zippers are cheap to construct and pretty cost effective as the teeth get molded by machine directly into the zipper tape. They are a bit stiffer than the coiled type zipper because the shape of the teeth are different to the coil style.

Specialized types of zippers:

Invisible Zippers

The construction of the invisible zipper places the teeth to the back of the zipper tape. Once the zipper is sewn in place you will hardly notice it from the right side of the fabric. This is mainly used on formal wear and fitted dresses, and you will find the pull tab is quite discreet.

Waterproof

Zippers for use on tents, backpacks and jackets are often made with an extra covering that prevents water from finding its way between the zipper teeth. Aside from this, the item itself is usually designed with an extra flap of fabric to help prevent water getting to the zipper, then the zipper itself has its second line of defence in its construction, ensuring you stay dry.

Reversible zipper

These zippers have a double pull or a reversible slider. You will see these on the all-in-one suits babies wear to enable mum to slide the zipper open from the bottom end in order to change a diaper without letting the top half of the baby get cold. When pulled from the top the mom can slide out the baby’s shoulders and conveniently remove the whole garment. The reversible open ended zipper is also popular on ladies knitwear as the wearer can choose to leave the bottom half of the garment open or the top half.

Locking zippers

These zippers have an extra little mechanism to lock the slider in pace so it does not accidentally slip down when under strain. You typically find these on pants, skirts, and dresses and on baby clothes.

Continuous zipper

If you are making a lot of clothing items of the same type then you can buy a roll of zipper tape with the teeth. It comes without the sliders and pull tab, and the top and bottom stops. The sliders with the pull tabs are bought separately. This way of buying zippers is useful if you need a custom length of zippers – like when making covers for foam mattresses, or custom size cushions. The teeth are either coil or plastic molded so they are easy to cut to size and you can usually simply stitch back and forth across the top and bottom to create the stops after putting the slider and tab pull in place. Alternatively you can buy the top and bottom stops and insert them.

Understanding Zipper Teeth Size

“Is it really that important to have a certain size and type of zipper for different projects?” new sewists may ask. Well, let’s just ask Jamie, an interior decorator who was consulted by a new client because the cushions she had bought from another decorator were broken. The sewist  had used dress type zippers for large 50 cm couch cushions. When trying to stuff the cushions back into the covers after washing, the teeth just parted company, leaving the client with gaping cushions. Says Jamie, “You need to have a stronger zipper for cushions, as they take a bit of pressure.”

When you buy a zipper you will usually see a number, such as #2, #4, or #7. This number refers to the width of the zipper teeth in millimeters. The higher the number, the wider the teeth and the stronger the zipper. The size of the zipper teeth affects other parts such as the tape (the fabric on either side of the teeth) and the slider (the mechanism that opens and closes the zipper) – the stronger zippers typically need stronger tape and more robust sliders.

Factors to Consider When Choosing Zipper Size

Delicate fabrics may require a smaller zipper size with a lighter tape to avoid a pull on the material, while heavier fabrics will need a larger zipper for added strength.

The weight and thickness of the item being zipped also plays a role in determining the appropriate zipper size. For example, if you are making a jacket with thick layers, a larger zipper size will be more suitable to act as a feature and operate smoothly.

If you anticipate heavy use or stress on the zipper, opting for a larger size will give durability and strength.

Lastly, consider your aesthetic preferences. The size of the zipper can impact the overall appearance of your project. On an evening dress a smaller zipper will be discreet. A larger one can make a bold statement on a sundress.

Choosing the Right Zipper Size for Clothing Projects

The table below is a guide. It does not mean you HAVE to use a particular size if you are sewing a particular item. For example, if you are making a skirt from denim you may use a metal zipper for the heavier material. If the skirt is made from silk or chiffon then the zipper may be a much lighter one with a coil construction. As a general rule the lighter the fabric the smaller the teeth size.

When it comes to length you may have a very fitted dress that requires a zipper that is much longer than the 7 to 9 inch (17.8 -22.9 cm) length suggested below. It’s all about individual needs.

Zipper Size	Common Uses	Usual Length	Teeth Width (mm)
1 – 4	Dresses, eveningwear, tailored pants with a side or back zipper, skirts, fitted blouses	7-9” (17.8 -22.9 cm)	1mm to 4mm
5 -6	Jackets, pants, bags, backpacks, light upholstery, boots	16-22” (40.6 – 55.9)	5mm to 6mm
7-8	Heavy-duty jackets, sleeping bags, tents	24-30” (61 – 76 cm)	7mm to 8mm
9 -10	Luggage, duffle bags, heavy duty upholstery, industrial applications like machinery covers.	36-72” (91.4 – 183 cm)	9mm to 10mm

The length of the zipper

Always measure the opening where the zipper will be inserted and choose a length that matches or is slightly smaller. This will ensure that the zipper functions properly. I’m sure you have come across garments where the zipper tab and slide go beneath the seam and it involves some poking around to locate the tab in order to close the zipper. That’s because the zipper was too long. You can shorten the length of a closed end zipper by cutting it off above the stop tab at the bottom and stitching back and forth across the end to create a new stop end – this can only be done with smaller size coil type plastic zippers – metal teeth and the larger plastic zipper teeth will break your machine needle! With metal zippers you can undo the prongs on the stop end and then cut to the length you need and reinsert them where you want, bending the metal prongs over to situate the stop end in its new position. It is a fiddly business so I would suggest trying to get the correct size on metal zippers in the first place.

Zipper Type for Bags and Purses: What to Consider

Tote bags and backpacks typically require longer zippers to allow you to open them up wide to get at your contents. There is nothing more frustrating than digging around for your items in a tote or backpack that does not open fully.

You can get away with shorter zippers for clutches and smaller purses simply because the contents will not be so bulky and are easier to extract.

Go for durable materials such as metal or nylon, depending on your bag or purse design because they get opened and closed on a daily basis. Malfunctioning zippers can be very annoying. Many perfectly good items get thrown away because the zipper is broken!

Tote bags often benefit from a #5 or #6, while backpacks may require a larger size like a #7 or #8. Clutches and smaller purses can typically use smaller sizes like a #3 or #5. It will depend on the type of fabric you are using – lighter weight fabrics can use smaller teeth sizes.

Zipper Choice for Home Decor Projects

For pillows and cushions, a #4 zipper is commonly used to provide a smooth opening and closing mechanism while remaining discreet.

Usually the zipper is not a feature so  choose a colour that blends in with the fabric. The teeth will need to be a decent size and durable to allow for cushion or seat covers to be removed and washed when necessary.

Zipper Types for Outdoor Gear: Durability and Functionality

Harsh weather conditions and heavy use requires zippers that can withstand the elements. Function is important – you don’t want to be out camping and find you can’t close the tent zipper! For tents, sleeping bags, and backpacks, larger zipper sizes like #7 or #8 are best. These sizes are strong and durable, ensuring that the zippers can withstand rough handling and extreme conditions. Metal zippers can corrode when exposed to the weather, so rather choose a strong plastic type zipper for smooth operation.

For outdoor gear choose zippers made from materials that are resistant to water, dirt, and corrosion. Certain coatings or treatments can enhance their performance in outdoor settings – after all you don’t want to go camping and be exposed to the elements because your jacket zipper won’t work or you can’t zip up your sleeping bag when the temperatures are close to freezing.

Making the zipper a feature

For items like make-up purses it’s fun to use bright contrasting colours for the zipper and large pull tabs to make the constant opening and closing easy. Some zippers are even made with metallic finishes to create eye-catching projects. When making leather items a metal zipper is usually used – it just looks classier to have the natural leather combined with metal rather than plastic.

Finding the Right Zipper Type for Your Project

It is easier to find the correct zipper sizes in online stores as smaller haberdashery stores carry a limited range. You may find the right color but not the right length or size for your project. Many of us sewists prefer shopping online because the there is a vast selection to choose from. If I am making say 50 items I can order 50 zippers in the correct length, correct teeth size (or should that be tooth size?) and color – something a retailer cannot usually supply. Online stores  usually have detailed product descriptions and customer reviews to help you decide what will work best for your project.

For zippers it’s not just size that matters but how it will be used.