Waterproof vs Water Resistant vs Water Repellent Fabric

Creating your own clothing, accessories, and home decor, are just some of the projects that sewists love to take on. Choosing a suitable fabric for your project is one of the most critical aspects of sewing,   so we have delved into the world of waterproof and water-resistant materials, exploring their different types and providing tips on how to sew with them effectively.

Whether you’re a seasoned seamstress or a beginner just starting on your sewing journey, this guide will equip you with the knowledge you need to navigate these unique materials.

Waterproof, water-resistant, or water-repellent  – they sound almost the same. Still, there is a difference in the performance. In this article we will show you how to tell the difference and how to sew with them.

Difference between waterproof, water resistant and water repellent

Breathable Waterproof fabric:

The minimum standards require the material to withstand the pressure of 10’000 mm of water without leaking. Imagine a 1 x 1 inch (2.5 x 2.5 cm) column filled with water to a height of 393 inches (10m). This is called the hydrostatic head, which measures the fabric’s resistance to water from a vertical column falling onto the fabric.

Waterproof fabric has a higher hydrostatic head than water-resistant fabric. Now, wearing a plastic bin bag in an emergency to avoid getting soaked may work for a few minutes. Still, because the bin bag, although waterproof,  is not breathable, you’ll soon find yourself wetter on the inside of the bag than on the outside because the sweat can’t evaporate.

Breathable waterproof fabric must also allow water vapor, as in body heat, to escape. How this is engineered is by making tiny holes in the material that would enable water vapor from your body to escape through the holes without letting in the water molecules – it’s a delicate balance, and the more breathable the fabric, the more expensive it is as it takes some clever engineering and production methods.

However, rain room tests have shown that a product advertised as only 5000mm water-resistant can sometimes perform better than one with higher water resistance. This can be attributed to water leaking through seams, zips, and other areas where ‘extras’, like hoods, are attached. So, ultimately, it comes down to the product’s construction, how seams are treated, and whether guards under zippers are created to ensure no water gets in.

Water-resistant and water-repellent fabric:

The hydrostatic head for water-resistant and water repellent fabric is up to around 5000mm. The water molecules will tend to roll off the item before soaking through. Unlike waterproof fabric, it will get wet if subjected to prolonged periods of intense rain. A light shower or a sprinkling of snow will be fine.

When choosing or making  hats, bags, sleeping bags, jackets, or coats, you need to know the difference and how the fabric will perform. Nothing is worse than believing you have a waterproof material, then suddenly you start feeling rather damp!

Choosing Between Waterproof and Water-Resistant Fabrics

While both can repel water, waterproof fabrics are designed to be impervious to water, making them ideal for outdoor gear like raincoats or camping equipment. On the other hand, water-resistant materials can withstand light rain or splashes but may not hold up in heavier downpours.

• Water-resistant cloth usually relies on its construction to allow light sprinklings of water to avoid soaking into the fabric.
• Water-repellent fabric usually has a coating to enable light sprinkles of water to roll off the fabric without getting absorbed.

Let’s look at some of the options out there. We’ll start with waterproof fabrics.

Types of Waterproof Fabrics

Several types of waterproof fabrics are available on the market, each with its own set of characteristics:

1. Ripstop Nylon: Ripstop was used to make parachutes in the 1940’s. Today, it is known for its durability and resistance to tearing and used in outdoor gear like tents, waterproof clothing, kites, jackets, ponchos and backpacks and coverings for items like barbeques and garden furniture.
2. Gore-Tex: This high-tech fabric is not only waterproof but also breathable, making it perfect for active wear.
3. Vinyl: A cost-effective option, vinyl can be completely waterproof and easy to clean but lacks breathability. It is excellent for cushions on outdoor furniture and fitted cushions on boats – but you need marine-quality vinyl. It is also used for bags, cosmetic bags and place mats that can be easily wiped down.
4. Pleather: This cheaper alternative to leather has a problem as it cracks over time and peels away from the fabric backing, making it look cheap and nasty. It is often used in furniture and for an inexpensive alternative to leather pants, as well as for handbags. When new it looks really good and is soft and quite a good leather imitation.
5. Plastic: In our quest for more natural-looking fabrics, the plastic tablecloth has become far less prevalent than it used to be, but if you are feeding toddlers, the plastic tablecloth is indispensable.
6. Naugahyde  – On the outside, the fabric is expanded vinyl but has a jersey knit backing. This looks like leather but is waterproof and, consequently, is a favorite for outdoor upholstery.
7. Oilcloth: Made by coating cotton with a layer of linseed oil, oilcloth is waterproof and has a pleasing vintage aesthetic.  Modern oilcloth is made with a clear PVC coating that protects the cotton base and is not to be confused with PVC that has a pattern printed directly onto it. Oilcloth is more expensive than PVC.
8. Darlexx ®: The Shawmut Corporation produces a Medical and Surgical Fabric that combines 80% Nylon and 20% Spandex. The stretchable fabric is waterproof and windproof yet breathable. Darlexx Thermalastic® has a Lycra outer with a grey microfleece backing that is also waterproof.
9. 100% Waterproof Cordura® Nylon: Cordura is a waterproof nylon initially used by the military as it is exceptionally durable and flame-repellent. It is perfect for outdoor furniture and luggage construction, as it is tough. Other Cordura fabrics can be used for jackets, workwear, and bags.
10. Neoprene: Any surfer or diver will know neoprene well, as wetsuits are made from it. It is waterproof, resists sunlight, and is highly resilient. Currently, offcuts of neoprene are used in making small bags to keep sun creams, etc, safe, as the fabric is also resistant to many chemicals.

Types of Water-Resistant Fabrics

Water-resistant fabrics are less impervious to water but offer more breathability, allowing your body temperature to regulate better, and they provide good moisture management.  Some popular types include:

1. Polyester: This synthetic fabric is naturally water-resistant and is often used in sportswear. If tightly woven, it can be used for bean bags and other furnishing applications.
2. Nylon: Similar to polyester, nylon is water-resistant and quick-drying.
3. Tightly Woven Cotton: While not inherently water-resistant, cotton can be tightly woven or have a special coating applied to resist water.
4. Wool: Natural wool is inherently water resistant. Boiled wool is made denser through the process and is more water resistant. You will have seen wool felt hats that have some water resistance.   Applying lanolin to the exterior or woolen garments can make them more water resistant, but the process needs to be repeated at intervals.
5. Nanotex Aquapel™: Nanotex Aquapel uses eco-conscious technology at the molecular level. It is engineered using Nano-scale “whiskers” that change the surface tension of fabrics, making them water-repellent and able to resist water-based stains. It is  PFAS-free, meaning it contains noper- or poly-fluorinated alkyl substances, often called forever chemicals because they take over 1000 years to break down. The most crucial point is that the fabric can be recycled and is breathable. It is also durable and fast-drying.
6.  Taslan ®: This Water repellent fabric has a distinctive textured look created by special machinery. It has a  matte surface and a durable, water-resistant finish, making it ideal for garments to wear when hiking. It is also quick-drying, lightweight, and breathable.
7.  Sunbrella: A popular outdoor fabric, Sunbrella is water resistant, fade resistant, and mildew resistant but not waterproof. As the name implies, it is used for sun umbrellas, beach and garden cabanas, as well as coverings for cushions on sun loungers and outdoor furniture.

Tips for Sewing

Tips for Sewing with Waterproof Fabrics

Sewing with waterproof fabrics can be challenging due to their slippery nature and the need to prevent water from seeping through the seams. Here are some tips:

1. Use a Teflon Foot: This will help the fabric glide smoothly under the sewing machine.
2. Use an anti-wicking thread – this will help keep the seams waterproof.
3. Use the Right Needle: A sharp, thin needle creates smaller holes and reduces leakage.
4. Seal the Seams: After sewing, apply seam sealer to prevent water from leaking through.

Tips for Sewing with Water-Resistant Fabrics

 While less tricky than waterproof materials, water-resistant fabrics still require some special handling:

1. Use a longer stitch length: This will help prevent puckering or stretching.
2. Choose the Right Thread: Synthetic threads like polyester are more water-resistant and will hold up better over time.
3. Use the Right Needle: A sharp, thin needle creates smaller holes and reduces leakage.

Sewing with waterproof and water-resistant fabrics opens up a world of possibilities for creating durable, weather-resistant items. By understanding these different types of fabrics and following our tips for sewing with them, you can confidently take on any project.

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